Should work fine, people have been making .300 WTFever brass from .223 since it was new. only thing I don't know for sure and it will depend on the brass (mil surp being the worst I imagine) is if you have to trim away enough neck to get down into that really thick brass and if you will have inside/outside reaming/turning issues. I suppose the throat of the barrel will matter as well. If I ever get off my butt and get my Kayak built my hydroponic vegatable garden set up and my truck running right and my WWII weasels back together and the '55 Rambler rebuilt, I suppose I will get a tok barrel built for my AR and I fully intend to use a .223 bolt and .223 brass cut down. hmm I seem to have a reamer for 458 SOCOM and a barrel blank for that, and oddly enough I have a rem 700 action and a .510 whisper reamer sitting here too....I need less job and more "free" time
I got plenty on free time -- I'm retired and on a fixed income. I need more money not more free time.
By the way, the word is the .223 brass works fine with just a length trim. If reforming the brass caused a donut at the neck/shoulder joint than reaming might be needed.
Last Edit: May 9, 2011 14:13:19 GMT -5 by 22boomer
1. I got 100 Fireball cases on sale for $18 2. 2 passes and I have a Blackout case. (Once I followed directions) 3. I hate reaming primer pocket crimps 4. I really don't care for hand trimming that much brass off a case 5. I was concerned about thick necks with the Blackout reamer 6. I REALLY hate reaming primer pockets
Update: I bought a Lee shell holder / trimmer set up and a primer pocket reamer and am going to try a few on the lathe. That still leaves clean up all the once fired LC stuff. Which means I will probably throw a bunch in the tumbler, swage them down, set up the lathe to trim, full length size / deprime, find a way to swage/ream primer pocket, and clean them up.
penny wise pound foolish ? you are correct in that fireball brass is quick and easy, Some of us do this ( myself) because we get an idea in our head and are too stubborn(stupid) to let it go. Personally fireball brass here in Alaska is like non existant and I have literally buckets full of LC .223 Shoot it till the neck splits as .223 trim it to 300 shoot it some more and then trim it down to TOk... then one last time into High pressure 9mm super cooper, or just have a bucket full of once fired that i can use to make any of those things without having any intermediate "in stock"
it is a lot of work, but then again Ii work cheap ;-)
one other point is that the conspiracy theorist nutjob in me see fuel prices at over 4 buck a gallon and living in a State that EVERYTHING is trucked barged flown into and supply becomes more of an issue that ease at times.
Did I read that right -- $18 for 100 Fireball as in ""221 Remington Fireball brass"? The average commercial price is $40+ for 100 cases. I could see why you would be going with 221 fireball brass but prices like that are not the norm.
Last Edit: May 10, 2011 5:00:30 GMT -5 by 22boomer
I was wondering when you were going to try shooting some of your 300 blackout ammo? It would be interesting to see how it does for you. Also, are you going for both supersonic and subsonic or just subsonic?
I re-chambered one of my Wisp barrels but the chamber did not clean up 100% and leaves a mark in the brass. I fires fine, but I didn't want to mess up any brass. I've got a 10 and 16" 1:10 twist on the bench to chamber and the 1:8's are still on order. The niche of the BLK is the heavy sub loads so being able to run them is critical. However, you either compromise or specialize. Running 240 SMK's at 1040 fps and 2.300"or 110's at 2300 fps and 1.680" in such a large case give different pressure curves. I can run a Tokarev surplus and sub load on the same gas system. Its a compromise, but it can be done. I'm going to start with a carbine gas system on the BLK with our adjustable gas block and see what happens.
Started a 1:10 BLK brl yesterday and got to the gas port location part....... Looked on Silencer Talk to see where others are putting their ports. It comes down to Pistol for Sub-Sonic dominant, Carbine for Super-Sonic dominant, and In between. Main gripe about Carbine location was that you can not use the fast powders when going sub sonic. 1680 / Reloader 7 for carbine vs AA#5 for pistol. I'm still leaning towards a Carbine with an adjustable block. Pistol length systems, especially adjustable, really limit hand guard selection. There is a small group of "shorter than carbine" guys out there also......
Decided to go the BRD route and "do both"....... 10" pistol and 16" carbine. Should be able to test this weekend. 16" Carbine gas system with .125" gas port. Like has been stated, too much on supers, limited on subs. I think the definition of OK would be able to run the factory Rem 220 subs, which I don't have... Loaded 180 Hornady's w/8gr of Lil Gun at 1000fps and action would cycle, but would not lock bolt back even with my light set up. 10" pending...
Nice weather up here in MI for a change, rode down to Holland on Sunday and it was in the 80's. Got rained on Sat but managed to get some Blackout testing done. 16" SS brl, 1:10 twist, carbine gas system, .125" port. Ran two different loads: #1 was Sierra 125 gr spitzers with 17.5 gr of Lil Gun, OAL at 2.010"; and #2 is Hornady 180 SPBT, 8 gr of Lil Gun, 2.250 OAL. Load #1 cycled and locked the bolt back with authority. Put in a Heavy H3 buffer with same results. Definitely need to tone down on the gas for these types of loads. It was sprinkling out so I did not chrono graph on Sat. Load 2 would almost cycle the action. It did eject the case but would not pick up another round. The Colt 7.62x39 mag had something to do with that as the cases would not sit level in them. The goal was to be able to run the factory Rem 220 subs, which I did not have, so I think it is going to be close. I put in my light carbine set up to see if it would lock the bolt back, but it started to rain a bit harder and I packed it in. 10" brl: .079" port in Pistol location. Load #2 would not eject the cases at all so this was a manual operation. Load #1 was tried and the cases would eject, but only about a foot off the bench. Not enough to lock the bolt back or pick up another round. Again the shells did not sit right in either of the Colt 7.62x39 or 5.56 mags. Chrono'd the #1 load at 2046 fps which is right about where Quick Load predicted. Using QL to see where a "max" is I bumped the allowed pressure up to 55 ksi from 50 ksi and using Lil Gun gave 18.3 gr at 96% fill, 99% burn. FPS predicted 2080, so there's not a whole lot to be gained from Load #1. We'll let the HP junkies go after the max stuff. Side Notes: Tried loading up some of my 190 gr Lee round nose lead bullets. Not enough throat to even get close. Going to drop in a 240 SMK and see where it's at. Fired cases looked great and a bullet would slip back in the case. Not tight, and not loose. The 10" was a pistol set up with 4x scope and the 16" a carbine with 7x scope. Groups were in the 1/2" ranges at 50 yds with my typical vertical stringing on the carbine. Summary: 30 caliber AR versatility with a round that is easy to build without any special parts. Gas port needs to be tailored to type of shooting and I need to find a mag that feeds better.
Been talking with customers on the 300 BLK and other 30 cal variants. To Sub or to Super is the main topic and setting up the system to handle each one. There are definitely different views out there; 1. Suppressor use 2. Max bullet weight 3. Max power 4. General purpose 5. I want it all! We've got two BLK uppers running, a 10" pistol system and a 16" carbine and hope to get some numbers put together for these two for a comparison along with some of the other 30 cal options. Take care and have a great Memorial Weekend! Tim
Did some reloading after work on another 30 cal sub project with my std Hornady 180's and the (new to me) Hornady 100 gr SJ bullets. Will get the details out when we get some more data put together. Have not received our 1:8's yet so need to check on them and see what's up.