I'll let you know, we are getting our tanks set up to do the gas blocks and barrels Don't want any rust on stuff now do we We are looking at our options for the mags whether we blue or parkerize. (No time frame here fellas, workin as fast as I can)
I dont know if you have you parkerizing needs taken care of yet or not, but to answer your question, Yes I have done home brew parking and it is not difficult. However you need to have a place where you can essentially have a vat of boiling ( well ok not that hot about 180-200 degree) phosphoric acid. Glass beading equipment ( or sand blast) is nice too. pretty simple process and by varying your "brew" you can get some nice shades from light grey to almost black, just don't accidentally get any copper in the mix ;-) makes everything kinda pink. Also the harder the metal is the less it "takes" park I did a run of FN/FaL lowers once and was kinda disappointed as the differentially heat treated section of the lower all came out different colors
I do my own parking, just did a slide and a M1 front sight part the other day. My setup if VERY simple, just a commercial stainless hotplate, assorted stainless pots, and a beadblasting cabinet.
I use the manganese phosphate solution from Lauer Custom Weaponry, dilute per instructions, heat to 170-180 degrees, dunk part for 10-15 minutes or until it stops "fizzing", rinse with water, and then quickly displace the water. I hose it down with WD40, wipe it down, then apply remoil or something similar.
One thing we have found on parkerizing is that it's not all the same. I started off with some ebay stuff to see what would happen and had fairly good results. We use Caswell Plating for our anodizing materials and again had fairly good results with that so we tried them for the park solution also. The last material I bought was from Brownell's to see how it works. What I want to know is how do you measure the strength of your solution? At what point do you know you are not going to get an effective job? It's easy to throw money at it and start a new batch, but when you start filling up 5 gallon barrel tanks, things get pricey. I have looked at the caustic hot blue mixtures, but the ingredients look like an FBI watch list. Not to mention you have to add water to once in a while. Been hearing some good things about Melonite treatments and Marty said he's got a shop down the road that is doing a super slick process. As an alternative, we just got some Cera-Cote in to try that and see what happens and it's price / performance curve.
I found this link/Person to be extremely useful when I first started working with phosphate conversion coatings www.arizonaresponsesystems.com/notes/notesfinish/metal/pagemetal.shtml the part on Titration will likely give you a definitive answer on solution strength. I also picked up a booklet on home workshop parkerizing from Paladin press many years ago ( speaking of FBI watch list )
Good luck Dan
Last Edit: Oct 15, 2010 11:28:16 GMT -5 by greywuuf