kinda depends, whats the outside Diameter of your Sized necks ? i like to shoot for a neck brass thickness of about .012 ( seems to be what most factory brass runs) just depends on what you need to do to get there .
Ok -- this is my problem -- I can't work with fired brass till I get brass that will work first. There is no rimless 256 WM brass that I know of, so I can't buy any. All the 256 WM FL dies are made to specific size and shape. I want an inside neck diameter that will hold the bullet but not be too tight. I guess what I need to do is get the dies, see what falls out and ream it so that it has good tension on the bullet. I figure .001" undersized should do the trick -- the FL die will set the outside neck diameter.
Last Edit: Apr 22, 2011 8:08:20 GMT -5 by 22boomer
Run your .223 brass through your die that you have, regardless of neck size and fire form it in the chamber with a wad load. Take a measurement and see where you are. Or, size the case and take an ID measurement + wall thickness measurement and calc what you need to get to .257". Or, size a real .256 WM and measure ID and duplicate that. Or, load up a bunch of 45's and go shootin! Remember, you asking advise from a guy who couldn't adjust a die............
I never though about firing it with a wad -- need to try that one.
The reason I figured on just forming and then reaming is because RCBS makes neck reaming dies. You form the brass in the die and run the reamer down in the top of the die and ream by hand. So many ways -- so little time!
....... or measure your expander ball and go just a smidge smaller than that, after all normally the expander leaves the brass at a usable neck tension right ? (ok so the brass it tight on the expander ball after expanding because of spring back but ... you get the idea) I prefer not to fire form with a wad... only because powder is getting more expensive all of the time and primers too, hazmat and shipping to Alaska and all.
here is something you check... just because....... does a piece of Sized (but not expanded or fired or anything) brass chamber in barrel ? if it does you are good to go on inside reaming, if it won't you need to outside turn. I am assuming it will because I doubt your reamer was a tight neck BR thing. That being the case it would be nice to know how much clearance you have. Tighter is better for accuracy ( centering the bullet etc ) up to the point of causing pressure problems in preventing the brass from expanding to release the bullet. one fire formed case could tell you much, as could a chamber casting. Theoretically you could enlarge your chamber in the neck area so that you don't need to ream or turn, just use REAL thick brass. It is up to you which combination you wish to use to get there. one thing to be aware of is the brass is GOING to change the dimensions it comes out of the Die as as you start taking away material. a thick raw piece of brass will spring back more or less than a thin piece ( I cant say for sure weather it will be more or less because it kind of depends on how much it is being worked and by how far you exceed the plastic deformation limit of the material ) for example... if you take cut off .223 and form a neck on it and inside ream it to perfect dimensions..... and Fire it in Full pressure loads.... it MIGHT not size back down the same next time as the now thinner neck will react slightly differently in the Sizing die, it might be better to work with an adjustable outside neck turning set up till you determine what thickness of neck works well in your dies. or you might end up having to spring for the bushing adjustable neck sizing die anyway after you fire 100 rounds ...... wildcats can be a lot of work to get right.
I am betting after this you will needs some time Blasting 1000 rounds of mil surp through a tok upper ;-)
Speaking of Tok uppers -- I've got like 5 different versions. I have one of the original blowbacks from years ago. One of the original gas operated versions that was really supposed to be a 7.62 mini-whisper. A gas operated 22 Reed Express based on the 7.62X25 and 17 Reed Express base on the 7262 Tok round and I got one of the Heavy Metal 7.62 Tok DI uppers with the newer shortened gas system. The one I shoot the least is the old blowback version since it screws the brass up so much.
By the way -- I can't really afford to start screwing with this round for another month. I kinda over spent this month and being retired I've got to keep an eye on the money.
Last Edit: Apr 23, 2011 13:03:48 GMT -5 by 22boomer
I got good news today from a friend that has a rimless 256 WM setup. He does not need to ream or turn the necks. I need to find out what brand brass he was using but I guess the best way would be to try a couple of different brands and see what falls out.
Holy shoot! Do you have the M1 carbine adapters ready? I just started to work on one myself but if you have one, that is better than great. I'm still saving up for stuff so I haven't had time to make any rimless rounds to check what will fit in the carbine magazine. I wish I had the reamer but no. I did get a short barrel from a friend --11.5" bolt face to muzzle -- that I want to get something like an XM 177 or XM 607 moderator pinned and welded on to make it legal for me to use. Seems there are only a few guys making the moderators and they are hard to get ahold of.
Oh, the barrel was a gift and since I'm just checking to see if I like the round, it should do the job just fine. If I like the round I'll need to maybe go a little further with the project.
Last Edit: Apr 28, 2011 19:12:49 GMT -5 by 22boomer